Bill Clarke's One Tank Trip To Leadville
Mountain Mining Town Still Retains Historic Character
POSTED: 5:00 pm MDT June 30,
2005
UPDATED: 6:44 pm MDT June 30,
2005
He's got a car, and a road map, and a tankful of gas. And once again, Bill Clarke is looking for places you can go this summer.
This one tank trip takes you to the land of the Tabors and the unsinkable Molly Brown. It's the land of Leadville.
Leadville is almost 2 miles above sea level and home to the highest airport in the country. The Mount Massive Golf Course is also the highest.Leadville is the last of the Colorado mountain mining towns not spoiled by limited stakes gambling and undisturbed by jet setters from the east and west coasts. First silver and then gold helped make Leadville the second largest city in Colorado for a while. Back then the place was booming. There were carriages and fine horses up and down Harrison Avenue and there was an opera house that brought world class performers to the mountain town.Horace Tabor built the opera house with mining money. So how much was he making at the time? The little Pittsburgh mine was producing about $10,000 a day.His affair, and later marriage to the woman called Baby Doe, which is tame by today's standards, scandalized the nation.The Healey House is a tribute to Leadville's gilded age and on stage here every week, Mary Jane Bradbury has a one-woman show, playing Baby Doe, Tabor's first wife, Augusta, and the unsinkable Molly Brown.At Leadville's National Mining Museum, the people who actually produced Tabor's wealth are some of the stars. It was miners like that who did the work for a few dollars a day while he was taking out thousands a day. The work was deep, dark, dirty and dangerous.Long after the gold and silver ran out, the Climax Mine near Leadville became a source of molybdenum, an element used to harden steel.When the molybdenum mine above town closed, local investors bought the railroad line and today the Leadville Colorado and Southern routes live again.The train runs twice a day through Labor Day. It's a two-and-a-half hour trip that covers about 14 miles, and you end up with a view of Fremont Pass.Maybe today the richest thing to come out of Leadville is the fudge from Handley's Fudge Store. The 4,000 square feet of store produces 31 varieties of fudge.A one-tank trip to Leadville is a trip back into some of Colorado's proud and occasionally bawdy past.
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Bill's Travel Notes
You can be in Leadville in less than two hours via I-70 and over Fremont Pass on Colorado 91. Your drive past the Climax Moly… Molyb ... Molybd ... Mmmmm ... Molybdenum Mine (Thank you, Baby Doe) is an added bonus.The Tennessee Pass Cafe in downtown Leadville was a great place for lunch. Friendly mix of locals and visitors made it worth the extra time we took just to talk to people. Oh, and if it's on the menu, try the buffalo meat loaf melt.Hunley's Candy Store and Gift Shop will drive you crazy -- but in a good way. The folks there make 31 different varieties of fudge and have it out on display along an 8-foot stretch of counter space. The store itself is 4,000 square feet and is a treat just to walk through.The Delaware Hotel pays great regard to Colorado's historic past and if you don't get immersed in the past when you're walking through the lobby, you're missing something big. The rooms have been lovingly restored but on select weekends during the summer when there are big events in town, space may be limited or not available. Check first.As a museum geek, I was fascinated by the National Mining Museum and could have spent hours there. Walking through a replica of a hard rock gold mine, seeing what early coal miners had to deal with, and the incredible dioramas that depict the history of Colorado gold mining ... I was in hog heaven going through it all. Maybe you're not as into this kind of history as I am, but the museum is still a "must."And finally, the Leadville Colorado and Southern Railroad. The owners bought it from the Burlington Northern for $10 when the Climax Mine closed down. The 14 miles of line and the rolling stock they bought are great for a mountain adventure.You can get the whole lowdown on what's doin' in Leadville by going to LeadvilleUSA.com. Also, check out ArkansasValleyLiving.com.Tell 'em you heard about it on our One Tank Trip Report.Enter One Tank Trip Contest:- "Best Western and Nickelodeon are giving you a chance to win a trip for four to Universal Studios to meet the creator of "The Fairly OddParents" and $1,000 spending money. To enter, click here
Previous One Tank Trips:
- July 22, 2004: Bill's One Tank Trip To Caribou Ranch
- July 16, 2004: Bill Clarke's One Tank Trip To Vail, Piney Lake
- July 9, 2004: Bill's One Tank Trip To Walden
- July 2, 2004: Bill's One Tank Trip To Copper Mountain
- June 25, 2004: Bill's One Tank Trip: Royal Gorge Bridge
- July 24, 2003: One Tank Trip To Georgetown July 23, 2003: One Tank Trip To Loveland July 23, 2003: One Tank Trip To Vail Valley July 22, 2003: One Tank Trip To Glenwood Caverns July 22, 2003: One Tank Trip To Mount Evans July 21, 2003: One Tank Trip To Red Rocks
- July 21, 2003: One Tank Trip To Cherokee Ranch
- July 18, 2002: Bill's One Tank Trip: To Estes Park, Trail Ridge Road July 18, 2002: Bill's One Tank Trip: To Devil's Backbone, Wild Lane Bed and Breakfast July 18, 2002: Bill's One Tank Trip: To Poudre Rafting
- July 18, 2002: One Tank Trip: To Boulder
- July 17, 2002: Bill's One Tank Trip: To Vail
- July 17, 2002: Bill's One Tank Trip: To Manitou Springs
- July 16, 2002: One Tank Trip: To Colorado Railroad Museum
- July 16, 2002: Bill's One Tank Trip: To Burlington
- July 15, 2002: Bill's One Tank Trips: To Air Force Academy
- July 15, 2002: One Tank Trip: To Pawnee Buttes
- November 19, 2001: Bill's One Tank Trip: Bailey And Beyond
- November 8, 2001: Bill's One Tank Trips: Colorado Springs
- May 25, 2001: Bill's Notes From One Tank Trip Rafting
- May 18, 2001: May 18. 2001: Notes From Bill's One-Tank Trip To Georgetown
- May 11, 2001: May 11, 2001: One-Tank Trip To Estes Park
- May 4, 2001: May 4, 2001: One-Tank Trips ... To Pueblo
- April 27, 2001: One Tank Trip: Colorado Highway 72
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