SELDOVIA, Alaska -- At the time of the 1867 purchase of Alaska from Russia for $7.2 million, it was derided as a "Seward's Folly," after the man who orchestrated the purchase, then Secretary of State William H. Seward.

But nearly a century and a half later, most Americans realize the 49th state is not just an icebox with Eskimos living in igloos.

As it proudly proclaims on its car license plates, Alaska is now our "last frontier" -- the last state in the union where it's easier to get around by airplane than it is by car. A place where wildlife roams free, just as it did in the lower 48 states, before Americans took over the landscape.

Most of the state is still inaccessible by road, with only the central part of the state near Anchorage having any sort of highway system. There are still many peaks in the state that have not been named.

Located several hours south of Anchorage on Cook Inlet, Seldovia is a microcosm of what Alaska has to offer.

Like much of the state -- including its capital, Juneau -- it can only be reached by air or water.

It's surrounded by mountains, water and splendid views. It was once Russian village and had to be moved to higher ground after the Good Friday earthquake of 1964 that caused so much damage in the state's largest city, Anchorage.

But it's real charm is in the town itself, which has, according to Seldovia.com, has no banks, car dealers, lawyers, movie theaters or super stores.

"We are very pleased to inform you that there are NO traffic lights in Seldovia!" the site also proclaims.

Once there, the possibilities for outdoor activity are endless: You can go swimming in the chilly waters of Outside Beach, rent a kayak for a float on the harbor (where you might see a sea otter) or rent a bicycle for a ride through the scenic and the wilderness areas nearby.

For history buffs, there's the St. Nicholas Russian Orthodox Church, which was built about 1820 on a hill overlooking the town. Tours are given by appointment, but cameras are not allowed iniside.

In addition to the otters you might spot in the harbor, the area also is home to sea lions, seals, whales, moose, black bears, all kinds of fish and dozens of bald eagles.

Many visitors also fish for Alaska's famous salmon from the decks of charter boats or from the shore.