HANALEI, Hawaii -
On the North Shore of Hawaii's northernmost island, the earth writhes like a topographer's fever dream — 3,000-foot cliffs, plunging waterfalls, tangled green valleys and sharp, serrated ridgelines. That's the Na Pali Coast.
Just east of those cliffs, Kauai's Kuhio Highway carries you past taro fields, a seaside village, a two-mile crescent of sand and a 300-foot pier that's dwarfed by mountains, greenery and surging surf. This is Hanalei Bay, which Hollywood would have had to create if Mother Nature hadn't.
You might know this neighborhood from "South Pacific" (1958). Or "The Descendants" (2011).
Or — attention, TV geeks — the pilot for "Gilligan's Island" (shot in 1963).
If Waikiki is the classic crowded Hawaiian beach, the North Shore is the iconic coastal outpost.
But everything looks a bit different when you get up close. So L.A. Times photographer Mark Boster and I arrived in February, eager to poke around when the crowds are smaller and the surf is bigger.
Our timing on this trip was not good. We rolled in amid sluggish traffic, thanks in part to Kuhio Highway's many beloved one-lane bridges and in part to high occupancy in the Hanalei-adjacent resort area of Princeville. The waves were not just big but massive and sloppy, forcing cancellation of most watersports and boat tours. Strong winds, sometimes gusting close to 40 mph, grounded helicopter tours. Clouds filled the sky for days. Our first purchase, two bags of groceries in Kapaa, came with a bonus population of bugs.
Greater Hanalei (population about 450) didn't feel quite like paradise. But even then, it was easy to look at.
For me, the center of gravity was the Hanalei Pier, so I spent a lot of time there as fishermen angled for bonefish, local kids leaped into the surf near the "NO JUMPING" sign and feral roosters (endemic on the island) pecked at stray coconuts.
One day on the pier, I met Abe Rivera, 15, who strolled up cradling a feral piglet that he'd caught in the mountains on a bow-hunting expedition with his dad. Another day, Erika Green of Waldorf, Md., turned up in her wedding gown, trailed by her new husband, Tim Green, and wedding planner Diana Gardner of Alohana Weddings.
"Most beautiful place on the island," Gardner said as the Greens trod the pier like models on a runway. "And no one else on the beach!"
Well, almost no one. Jett Yarberry, a 38-year-old surfing instructor and lifelong North Shore boy, is there most days. "I grew up in that valley," Yarberry told me, pointing west. "My parents came here as hippies in 1968 and evolved into normal people."
This is not an uncommon North Shore story. About 45 years ago, Howard Taylor, the brother of actress Elizabeth Taylor, bought several acres at the end of Kuhio Highway by Haena Beach, eight miles west of Hanalei. He couldn't get permission to build, so he invited a band of hippies to live on his land.
For most of the '70s, Taylor Camp housed dozens of free-thinking refugees from the mainland. They built treehouses, raised kids, celebrated nudity, smoked pot and annoyed many islanders before state officials finally bought the land, chased them away and burned down the treehouses.
Now the site is part of Haena State Park, but many of those families remained on the island. (The tale is told in "Taylor Camp," a 2010 documentary directed by Robert C. Stone and coffee table book of the same name by photographer John Wehrheim.)
These days, North Shore visitors are more likely to stay in the hotels and condos of Princeville, play a lot of tennis and golf there, and alternate watersports with hiking, shopping and restaurant exploring in tiny downtown Hanalei.
On the north side of Kuhio Highway, the main drag, you find Ching Young Village, once the site of a lonely general store, now an '80s mini-mall that includes a grocery store, tattoo parlor, several restaurants and ample kitsch and grit. On the south side stands Hanalei Center, a snazzier collection of restaurants and shops in a set of buildings that 80 years ago held the town elementary school. On the south side of the street, you can pay $7.75 for a macadamia nut shake at Shave Ice Paradise or browse antique Polynesian weapons at Yellowfish Trading Co.
On both sides of the highway and at the beach, you'll see stickers, posters and other reminders of two homegrown heroes. One is Andy Irons, who won three world surfing championships in the 2000s but died in 2010 at 32 when his heart failed after "mixed drug ingestion."
The other is surfer Bethany Hamilton, who was 13 in 2003 when a tiger shark at Tunnels Beach tore off her left arm. Hamilton recovered, returned to surfing and inspired the movie "Soul Surfer" (2011). On March 21, Hamilton won the Surf N Sea Pipeline Women's Pro at Oahu's Banzai Pipeline.
Other stickers we saw all over the North Shore say "Defend Hanalei" — part of the debate over a developer's plans to build an 86-unit hotel and 34 homes on the ridge between the Hanalei River and the St. Regis. That ridge held the Hanalei Plantation Hotel in the '60s and a Club Med in the 1970s but has been idle for more than 30 years. One morning we hiked up there, and when I found the stage where staffers and guests must have danced to the old Club Med "Hands Up" song, I felt like Charlton Heston spotting the Statue of Liberty at the end of "Planet of the Apes."
I understand the locals who lament that tourists and the rich have taken over the North Shore.
But I don't think those people are fully in charge yet. If they were, the restaurant service would be faster. Parking on the sand would be banned at Black Pot Beach. Those one-lane bridges on the highway would be widened. And that would be a shame.
It's the weather that's really in charge here: the big waves, the heavy rains on the erosion-carved mountains, the hurricanes and tsunamis that arrive now and then to ravage the coast.
In fact, it was an iffy decision, toward the end of our visit, to ignore the low-hanging, rain-heavy clouds, wrestle a rented kayak into the water at the river's mouth and paddle away from the tidal tug toward the taro fields of the Hanalei Valley.
But the move paid off. I got just far enough that the sound of traffic faded and the foliage thickened along the shore. The clouds hung heavy but did not burst. I heard birds and murmuring water. And I saw Kauai's green mountains, right side up and upside down, reflected on the smooth surfaces of the river.
Bad timing? Who said that?
WHEN ON KAUAI, EAT LIKE 'THE DESCENDANTS,' LIVE LIKE A LOCAL
In the Hanalei area, the burgers come with a side of humor at Bubba's and a pleasant scene is baked into baked goods at Kilauea Bakery. A list of places and activities, plus, a Kilauea Lighthouse tip:
— Do stroll Hanalei Pier. It stands at the end of Weke Road, where the Hanalei River meets Hanalei Bay. The concrete pier, neighbored by Black Pot Beach Park, offers panoramic views and juts about 300 feet into the bay.
— 0.5 mile from the Hanalei Pier: Do test the water at Hanalei Pavilion Beach Park, Weke Road, Hanalei. Shaded pavilion, bathrooms, grass, picnic tables and a beach facing Hanalei Bay.
— 0.7 mile from Hanalei Pier: Do grab a beer or snack at Tahiti Nui (5-5134 Kuhio Highway, Hanalei; (808) 826-6277, www.thenui.com). Lived-in atmosphere, slow service, long history. Live music nightly. George Clooney and Beau Bridges ate here in "The Descendants."
— 0.8 mile: On date night, do consider Bar Acuda (5-5161 Kuhio Highway, Hanalei; (808) 826-7081, www.restaurantbaracuda.com). Upscale tapas in a sleek setting. Dishes about $8 to $22.
— 0.8 mile: Do try breakfast at the Wake Up Cafe (5-5144 Kuhio Highway, Hanalei; (808) 826-5551, www.hanaleiwakeupcafe.com). Lines can get long and service can be brusque, but we had two mornings of prompt, hearty food. Cash only. Breakfast only. Prices up to $11.
— 0.8 mile: Do eat at Hanalei Gourmet (5-5161 Kuhio Highway, Space 5, Hanalei; (808) 826-2524, www.hanaleigourmet.com). Most dinners $22.95-$31.95. In old plantation-style schoolhouse building of Hanalei Center. Live music some nights.
— 0.8 mile: For a homegrown burger, do try Bubba's Burgers Hanalei (5-5161 Kuhio Highway, Hanalei; (808) 826-7839, www.bubbaburger.com). Bubba's is a local chain, known for its cheeky slogan ("We cheat tourists, drunks and attorneys") and Kauai grass-fed beef. Prices top out at $8.25.
— 0.8 mile: Do check out Pedal 'n Paddle (5-5190 Kuhio Highway, Hanalei; (808) 826-9069, www.pedalnpaddle.com), one of several Hanalei companies renting surfboards, kayaks, bikes, etc. Single kayaks start at $20 a day. Beach-cruiser bikes rent for $15 a day.
— 1 mile: Don't show up late for services at Waioli Huiia Church (5363A Kuhio Highway, Hanalei; (808) 826-6253, www.hanaleichurch.org), which dates to the early 19th century. The handsome main building, a big green American Gothic structure that went up in 1912, helps attracts many visitors to Sunday services. A few steps away, the Mission Hall dates to the 1840s, when Christian missionaries were still a novelty on the island. Sunday services (which combine English and Hawaiian) begin at 10 a.m.
— 1 mile: Do try the sushi at Hanalei Dolphin Restaurant & Fish Market (5-5016 Kuhio Highway, Hanalei; (808) 826-6113, www.hanaleidolphin.com). Elegant dining room and bar with colored lanterns. Big patio with river views. Sushi lounge. Tastiest dish of my trip was the Dolphin's tempura-battered soft shell crab temaki with chili oil aioli, green onion and sprouts. Dinners $20-$44.
— 1.1 miles: If you're child-free and seeking funky style near the beach and the main drag, do try the Hanalei Surfboard House (5459 Weke Road, Hanalei; (808) 651-1039, www.hanaleisurfboardhouse.com). This two-unit vacation rental, one block from the beach, has surfboards instead of a white picket fence, bowling balls instead of garden gnomes and a few lotus blossoms in a fountain. Tobacco-free. $325 per night per unit, plus one-time $95 cleaning fee.
— 1.3 miles: If you like "funky" but can't afford $325 a night, do try the Hanalei Inn (5-5468 Kuhio Highway; (877) 769-5484, www.hanaleiinn.net). Four studio units with kitchens and one without kitchen, plus three more units in a beach house on nearby Weke Road. Rates typically $149-$209; $279 for the main part of the beach house. Inn units have wood floors, flat-screen TVs and little terraces with just enough room for dining tables. Shared barbecue. Daily maid service on request.
— 3 miles: Don't underestimate Lumahai Beach (a.k.a. Nurses Beach). This is where Mitzi Gaynor washed that man right out of her hair. But waves get big, and there's a rock ledge nearby. One study tallied 23 drownings there from 1970 to 2012 (www.lat.ms/1hF7B1T).
— 4.4 miles: If you head west from Hanalei to Haena State Park (see Kalalau Trail sidebar), do get a snack at Sushi Girl (5-6607-B Kuhio Highway, Wainiha; (808) 827-8171, www.lat.ms/1kprQAb). Food $5-$15. Next door to Wainiha General Store.
— 4.9 miles: If you're bringing the family, do consider the Hanalei Bay Resort (5380 Honoiki Road, Princeville; (808) 826-6522, www.hanaleibayresort.com). About 240 condo-style units, studios to two bedrooms. Some are time shares, some privately owned, some vacation rentals. Lush 22-acre grounds, enormous pool, eight tennis courts, five- to 10-minute walk to beach. (The resort's restaurant was closed for renovation in spring, due to open in summer.) Ten-minute drive from Hanalei.
— 5.1 miles: If you like the high end, do check out the St. Regis Princeville Resort (5520 Ka Haku Road, Princeville; (808) 826-9644, www.stregisprinceville.com), the most glamorous hotel on the North Shore. Jaw-dropping view from terrace, kid-friendly beach. Non-suite rooms start at $490 a night.
— 8.7 miles: Do get a bite at Kilauea Bakery & Pau Hana Pizza (2484 Keneke St., Kilauea; (808) 828-2020, www.lat.ms/P0KVwd). Pleasant patio. It's part of Kong Lung Historic Market Center,a group of upscale shops and restaurants set in stone buildings that were part of a sugar plantation.
— 8.7 miles: Do trust Paco's Tacos (4460 Hookui Road, Kilauea; (808) 635-0873, www.lat.ms/1m35iI0) for a fix of fresh Mexican food. It's not cheap, but this lunch wagon parks outside the handsome, well-stocked Healthy Hut Market & Cafe. Breakfasts and lunch plates up to $16.
— 9.3 miles: Do leave time for a leisurely meal at Common Ground's Garden Cafe (4900 Kuawa Road, Kilauea; (808) 977-8373, www.commongroundkauai.net). Big patio on a 46-acre agricultural property. Prosperous hippies, farm-to-table organic focus (but they do serve burgers). Terrific Mighty Green Salad (kale, papaya, macadamia nuts) for $14. Breakfast and lunch.
— 10.2 miles: Don't try to visit Kilauea Lighthouse or Kilauea Point National Wildlife Refuge (3500 Kilauea Road, Kilauea; (808) 828-1413, www.lat.ms/1eFDWQf) on a Sunday or Monday. Since federal budget cuts, they've been closed those days. The rest of the week, you can see the lighthouse (opened 1913, closed in the 1970s), which sits dramatically on a bluff top, and the 203-acre wildlife refuge. Admission $5 per visitor age 16 or older.
KAUAI HISTORY TIMELINE: HOW THE ISLAND EVOLVED
5.1 million years ago: Kauai is the first of several volcanic islands to rise from the Pacific, forming the Hawaiian archipelago.
300-500: First Polynesian explorers and settlers reach the islands.
1778: Capt. James Cook lands on Kauai's south shore. He and his crew are the first Europeans to reach Hawaiian soil. Within two years, they run afoul of the islands' rulers, and Cook is killed in a skirmish on the Big Island.
1816: Commissioned by the empire-building Russian American Co. to establish a presence in Hawaii, German doctor George Schaffer starts building three forts on Kauai, including one at Princeville. Within a year, Schaffer is ejected by Hawaii's homegrown monarchy.
1892: Eager to load rice exports onto ships, workers put up a wooden pier in Hanalei Bay. Over time it will be also used for loading sugar, taro and cattle.
1893: The U.S. seizes control of the Hawaiian islands from the kingdom's ruling family. Formal annexation follows in 1898, statehood in 1959.
1912: A concrete pier replaces the wooden one at Hanalei Bay.
1933: Last commercial use of the Hanalei Pier.
1940: A roof is added at the end of the Hanalei Pier, and a tourism icon is born.
1946: Largest tsunami in the island's (short) recorded history hits the North Shore, lashing Haena with 45-foot waves and sending 19-foot waves into sheltered Hanalei Bay.
1957-58: In the aftermath of another tsunami, the film version of "South Pacific" is shot in and around Hanalei. Besides the pier, the production uses Lumahai Beach (where Mitzi Gaynor sings "I'm gonna wash that man right outa my hair") and Makana Mountain, which stands in for mystical Bali Hai.
1961: On the scenic ridge at the eastern edge of Hanalei Bay, the Hanalei Plantation Hotel opens with about 210 rooms and cottages. In the '70s it becomes a Club Med, then closes and falls idle.
1964: The last damaging tsunami to hit Kauai.
1970: In the North Shore area of Princeville, previously home to sugar plantations, a cattle ranch and the planter's estate in "South Pacific," builders begin a 9,000-acre, master-planned, upscale enclave with legions of vacation homes and condos.
1985: Princeville adds a big Sheraton hotel, spread over three four-story buildings on a slope near the water's edge. (In 2008, the Sheraton will be renovated and reborn as a St. Regis.)
1992: Hurricane Iniki hits Kauai, killing several people and destroying more than 1,400 homes. Director Steven Spielberg and the crew of "Jurassic Park," on their final day of location shooting, safely huddle in a hotel. The movie comes out the following year.
2011: "The Descendants" shoots extensively on the North Shore, including a restaurant scene featuring George Clooney and Beau Bridges at Hanalei's Tahiti Nui.
2012: Ohana Real Estate Investors, the company behind the Montage hotels in California and Utah, proposes a new resort on the old Hanalei Plantation Hotel site, with an 86-unit hotel and 34 homes. Many locals oppose the project. Environmental impact studies begin.
2012-13: The Hanalei Pier is in bad shape, but state officials (who own it) say they can't afford repairs. The Hanalei Bay Rotary Club raises more than $150,000 to do the job.
(Sources: University of Hawaii, http://lat.ms/1m2R33j; Kauai Historical Society, www.kauaihistoricalsociety.org; U.S. Geologic Survey, www.lat.ms/1t19xW5; Defend Hanalei, www.SaveHanaleiRiverRidge.com; Ohana Real Estate Investors, www.HanaleiPlantation.com)
Christopher Reynolds: firstname.lastname@example.org
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